DEER FENCE INSTALLATION: MIDDLE STEPS 1

Preparation

Early Steps: Posts and Fence Setup

Middle Steps: Joins, Adjustments, and Supports
Lines for Polypropylene and Metal Fence
Joining the Fence Sections
Dealing with Grade Changes
Securing the Fence Bottom
Securing the Fence Top

Finishing Touches, Gates, and Maintenance

Deer Fence Installation

 

MIDDLE STEPS

Monofilament Line and Tie Wire for Deer Fence

Thick nylon monofilament lines (8 or 11-12 gauge) and pvc-coated black 13.5 gauge steel tie wire are used to improve the fence’s appearance and to strengthen it agains falling tree limbs, charging deer, or deer that persistently butt against the fence.

Tie wire requires less gear to install (no special terminators or tighteners are needed). Also, since it need not be placed under tension it minimizes the need for earth anchors (used to counter sideways stress along the fence) and also puts less of a pull upon posts along a curve, and so limits the tendency of such posts to tilt toward the curve’s inner side (see diagram below)

Fence Curve Diagram

On the other hand, monofilament line tends to give with the fence. So when placed along the top of the fence it is better at warding off falling branches; and when placed in the "deer impact zone" at a height of 3 to 4 feet it is much better at countering the effects of deer inclined to charge the fence or give it a persistent battering.

We recommend using tie wire (1) at the tops of garden fences less than 500 feet long, (2) wherever the fence goes around a curve (apply a series of tie wire lengths about 100 feet long), and (3) at all places where the length of line or wire being applied is very short (less than 50 feet long). Note that the line should be applied in “runs” starting at one end, gate, or corner on the fence and ending at the next corner, gate, or end; and also that if a run is over 300 feet long you need to divide it into a series of smaller runs each 300 feet long or less.

We recommend using monofilament line instead of tie wire at the top of the fence where falling tree branches are a significant hazard, where the fence is over 500 feet long, and where individual runs are over 50 feet long. Also, if a polypropylene fence blocks places where deer have been accustomed to roam freely it is advisable to install two monofilament line about 9 inches apart in the “deer impact zone” 3 to 4 feet high in order to minimize damage to the fence. This step is not necessary in the case of metal hexagrid fencing unless it becomes clear after installation that the fence is being subjected to severe battering. However, metal hexagrid fencing needs four monofilament/tie wire lines, one along the top of the fencing at 5.5 feet and the others at 6, 6.5, and 7 feet.

Monofilament Lines for Polypropylene Deer Fence

Installing Monofilament Line

Monofilament line for deer fence comes in several gauges–most commonly 8 gauge, 11 gauge, and 12 gauge. We recommend using 8-gauge line (item 16-011 in various lengths) with metal hexagrid fencing and 11 or 12-gauge line (see item 16-012) with polypropylene fencing. These lines resist UV radiation well and are reasonably durable, having an expected life of 5 to 10 years. They can be connected to the fence with hog-rings, zip-lock ties, or short lengths of tie wire, and can be drawn tight and secured to posts or trees with gripples and a gripple tensioning tool; with u-bolts and circular wire tensioners; or with oval metal sleeves, a crimping tool, and circular wire tensioners (items 16-03 thru 16-10). Alternatively, they can be tightened and secured without special gear as follows: Hammer a two-inch U-nail (item 17-01) about half-way in on the outside surface of the tree or wood post to which the line is being secured. Then cut the line, string it through the U-nail opening twice, pull the filament taut, and hammer the U-nail down far enough to hold the filament securely but not far enough to harm or break it. Who said there was no art to installing a deer fence?

The main weakness of this monofilament line is that it stretches. So every year or two one needs to inspect it to see whether it is sagging. If it is, go from the U-nail where it is attached to the tree and move the line horizontally back over the tree or post until the line has regained the desired tightness, and at this point drive a U-nail over the repositioned strand to keep it taut. Alternatively, use a gripple tensioning tool (for a line secured by gripples) or a circular wire tensioner tool (for a line bearing a circular wire tensioner) to tighten the line of monofilament.

Calculating the Runs of Monofilament Line on Your Fence. Monofilament line is strong enough to run up to 300 feet in a straight line, but it cannot cross gates, and it should not go around corners because the line will wear at the corner. So assuming your fence has only one monofilament line (at the top), calculate the number of runs by starting at a corner and going up to 300 feet or until you reach the first corner gate or end. Stop the run at that point and start a new one. Whatever device you choose (gripple, oval metal sleeve, or u-bolt cable clamp) you will need two of these devices for each run. If your choice is the oval metal sleeve or u-bolt cable clamp, you will also need one circular wire tensioner (item 16-09) per run. If some runs are using metal tie wire instead of monofilament line, you will not need any of these accessories for those runs.

Installing Metal Tie Wire. 13.5 gauge pvc-coated steel tie wire (item 16-021) does not stretch, so it does not need to be applied under tension. Simply pass one end of the tie wire around one anchor post, wrap it around itself a few times, proceed to the other anchor post (at the other end of the run); pull the wire tight enough to run straight and support the fence; cut the wire; and wrap the cut end around around the incoming wire several times to secure it.

As noted above, use this wire in preference to nylon monofilament (a) at the tops of garden fences less than 500 feet long, (b) wherever the fence goes around a curve, and (c) at all places where a “run” of fencing is going to be less than 50 feet long.

Mid-lines for Metal Hexagrid Fencing Unlike the polypropylene fence, which may need to be strengthened by lines running through its its mid-section (see above), the metal hexagrid deer fencing already has horizontal reinforcing wires running through it at regular intervals, and it is generally strong enough to resist multiple deer impacts. Therefore, the only monofilament line needed is the single one along the top that helps to support the fence's weight. Start marrying this line to the horizontal 17-gauge wire at the top of the hexagrids (you can use either side of the hexagrid fencing roll as the fence top) with a few loosely fastened zip-lock ties. Then secure it to your posts or trees using zip-lock ties or u-nails (item 17-01) pounded half-way in; then tighten it with a circular wire tensioner or gripples and a gripple tensioner (items 16-03 thru 16-10); and finish the job by joining it to the fence’s top horizontal wire with hog rings and a hog ring stapler (items 17-09 thru 17-14).

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